Oval diamonds have enjoyed a surge in popularity over the past year as purchasers looking for something different to the traditional round brilliant cut diamond yet timeless enough to remain much loved for many years to come.

Diamonds have been cut into elongated oval shapes for hundreds of years however it was not until the 1950’s that the optimal cutting technique was perfect by a renowned Russian diamond cutter to release the maximum brilliance from an oval stone. Today, modern oval diamonds are optimised to maximise the stone weight available from a rough crystal whilst retaining the fire and scintillation of the brilliant cut style.

Trewarne Alectrona - Oval Diamond Ring

Rohan Jewellers - Rose Gold and Diamond Ring

Musson Teiza Oval

Linneys Yellow Gold Oval Diamond Soliatire Ring

Unlike round brilliant cut diamonds however, oval diamonds do not follow a rigid faceting pattern or proportion that makes for a uniform finish. The final shape of the stone is determined by the shape of the rough crystal which may lend itself to a long narrow oval or to a shorter wider shape.

The oval diamond does however share the same number of 58 facets as the round brilliant cut. These vary in size to allow for the widest and longest central section of the stone and decrease in size towards the rounded, narrower ends where the facets become very small and close together. This variation in the faceting gives the oval cut a unique appearance often referred to as a ‘bow tie’ effect across the centre of the stone where the facets are the most open and the amount of light reflected is lower. All oval cut stones will have a bow tie to some degree; however, this can be minimised by skilful cutting and good proportion.

Oval diamonds do have the magic ability to also appear larger on the hand than a round brilliant cut due to the shallower depth of the stone at the elongated ends. As the stone is cut to optimise the weight and proportion of the finished gem from the rough crystal, less waste occurs during this process making oval stones slightly less expensive than their round counterparts.

When choosing the perfect oval diamond much of the appeal is down to personal preference as to the shape – you may prefer a long slender oval that in elongated and elegant or a more rounded oval with an egg shape. Because of the variation of the available shape and proportion of ovals, and the appearance of the bow tie being more prevalent on some stones, it is really virtually impossible to full appreciate the true presence and appearance of a stone unless it is viewed in person. In addition, unlike round stones which have a formal grading for the finish of the cut, there is no such standard for oval shaped stones. For this reason, it is best It to be guided by a diamond professional as to the stones that have been cut to possess the most optimal proportion for maximum brilliance and fire.

Oval diamonds lend themselves to elegant, timeless designs, a vintage twist or to a contemporary bold setting that accentuates the elongated shape. Perfect for a ring or drop earrings, oval diamonds are a stylish alternative to the classic round. Due to the variation in the shape of the cut and proportion oval diamonds should be viewed in person to appreciate their unique character with the guidance of your jeweller who advise on the best stone to meet your taste and preferences.