This month we sit down to talk all things diamonds with the very talented artisan jeweller, Matthew Ely of Matthew Ely Jewellery. Located in Sydney’s stylish Eastern Suburbs, Matthew is one of a new generation of bespoke jewellers who takes pride in personally designing and then handcrafting each individual piece for his clients.

Q: Tell us the history of your business and how you became a jeweller?

MATTHEW: “Jewellery is in my blood. My family has been in business since 1974, and I essentially grew up in my father’s Penrith boutique. I started working in the store when I was 12 years old, cleaning the workshop and doing bits and pieces. It was there that I developed a true love for the industry, from the interaction with clients to the sparkle of precious stones. Dad was always my mentor and biggest supporter. He gave me the creative freedom and confidence to learn and grow as a jeweller under his guidance.

After finishing school at 18, I took an apprenticeship to really hone my craft, while also winning a few competitions. This eventually led to a scholarship from the Australian Overseas Foundation, which gave me the opportunity to work and train in London for 18 months, learning from some of the best in the industry. The skills and experience I gained there were invaluable, with a focus on technique and the design of true luxury pieces.

That was a major turning point. Returning to Australia, I was honoured to win the Fancy Colour Award at the 2013 Diamond Guild Australia Jewellery Awards. I was still working for dad at the time, but on a pathway to launch my own business and store, with his unwavering support. That dream came to fruition in 2014, with the opening of my first luxury boutique and workshop on Ocean St in Sydney’s Woollahra.

Five years later, after buying out Dad’s share of the business so I could work independently (although we definitely still help each other out as needed!), I relocated to our current boutique in Queen St. It was, and continues to be, all about having an open space workshop which allows clients to watch their jewellery being crafted by hand. That was three years ago, and I haven’t looked back!”

Q: What inspires you about diamonds?

MATTHEW: “I’m inspired by their never-ending sparkle! Diamonds are wonderful to work with, as their remarkable durability allows for increased creativity in design, the cutting of unusual shapes and styles. Of course, they are also available in a broad colour palette, which adds to their spectacular potential.”

Q: What is the most memorable diamond piece you have made?

MATTHEW: “I have two pieces that immediately spring to mind – one that was created for a wedding (in fact, for my wedding) 10 years ago, and another that “walked down the aisle” this year. The first piece is incredibly close to my heart; a diamond hairpiece with a detachable brooch bow that was inspired by a bouquet of flowers. There’s also a pear-shaped little diamond pendant. It took me about 350 hours to make – quite a project but a labour of love! My wife, Nicole, wore this on our wedding day in 2012.

The aim was to create a piece that could be worn casually, all the way up to black tie. I was inspired by the tremblings that I saw in the Bulgari and Cartier exhibitions while travelling Europe, so I included these in the design, handmaking individual springs that would enable the piece to shimmer as it moved. That was almost a decade ago, and I still have clients who are inspired by the piece.

Very recently, I undertook an even bigger challenge for a wedding, handcrafting a diamond and pearl tiara that could be disassembled to create a necklace. There are a total 580 diamonds in the final piece, with a weight of 40.25 carats. It took over 650 hours to create. It doesn’t get much more memorable than that!”

Q: What would be your dream diamond piece to design?

MATTHEW: “The more extravagant, the better. Having just completed the wedding tiara, I’d love to create a truly dramatic diamond necklace. A piece fit for royalty, that you would see in a cabinet but certainly wouldn’t wear every day. That’s the dream!”

Q: What trends do your see in diamond jewellery in 2022?

MATTHEW: “There has been a real swing towards ‘casual luxury’ – day-to-night diamonds that are wearable in any circumstance, whether you’re going out to dinner or going to a Pilates class. That can mean choosing more unusual diamond shapes or layering up a number of diamond tennis bracelets. It’s a definite shift from the traditional big, statement diamond as centrepiece.

The trend is equally about metal colours and unique materials like ceramics, titanium and aluminum alongside diamonds in high-end jewellery. This experimentation has primarily been coming from Europe, so it will be interesting to see how that transitions into the Australian market.”